What is "itamae"

An is a cook in a Japanese kitchen, or a chef in larger restaurants (esp. of high-end Japanese cuisine). The term can be translated literally as "in front of the board", referring to a cutting board.

While it is not necessary to be Japanese in order to be considered an itamae, non-Japanese must prove themselves worthy of such a title.

Dave Lowry, in his book "The Connoisseur' s Guide to Sushi: Everything You Need to Know About Sushi" describes four criteria to judge a good itamae:

• How he handles the food;
• How he handles his food utensils (basically his knives);
• How he treats his clients and
• How he behaves, moves and works.