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Falkenstein

Falkenstein or Falckenstein ("falcons' stone" in German) may refer to:

Falkenstein (Saxon Switzerland)

The Falkenstein is one of the best known climbing peaks in Saxon Switzerland. It is situated near the rocky Schrammsteine ridge southeast of the town of Bad Schandau. The Falkenstein is nearly 90 m high and consists of sandstone. In the Middle Ages there were fortifications on top of the rock. Even today, the steps carved into the rock are still visible.

In 1864 the first ascent of the rock was made in modern times by gymnasts from Bad Schandau. This ascent, using the climbing route known now as the Turnerweg, is also seen as the "birthday" of Saxon rock-climbing. The peak of the Falkenstein can only be reached by skilled climbers. Nowadays more than 100 routes lead to the top. The most popular ascent is Schusterweg (III), which was first climbed by Dr. Oscar Schuster in 1893.

Other famous climbs on the 'Falkenstein' (with their Saxon rating grades) are the:

  • Südriss (VIIa) - first ascent by Oliver Perry-Smith in 1913
  • Direkte Westkante (VIIIb) - first ascent by Wulf Scheffler in 1956
  • Buntschillernde Seifenblase (IXb) - first ascent by Bernd Arnold
Falkenstein (Thuringia)

The Falkenstein lies southeast of the small town of Tambach-Dietharz in Schmalwasser bottom (Schmalwassergrund) and is the most important rock formation in the Thuringian Forest in central Germany. It consists of porphyry ( rhyolite and andesite). On the valley side the crags are high. Because of its situation on the side of a hill (the uphill side has a height of about ) it appears most striking when one stands immediately in front of it.

The area, which is near the Rennsteig climbing path, has a very montane climate due to its height. The Falkenstein was first climbed in 1852 by the Tambach glassmaker, Jacob Zimmermann. Since then it has become a rock climbing site with climbing routes of varying grades. The rock is best reached on foot or bicycle by taking the road from Tambach-Dietharz (closed to traffic) which runs along the Schmalwassergrund past the Schmalwasser Reservoir - a distance of about . At the foot of the Falkenstein there is a mountain rescue hut.